Early in the morning of September 7, 2004, Ivan started out on its nine hour (or longer, depending on who you ask) warpath through Grenada — a country whose people often forget that they’re on the edge of the hurricane belt because of the usually mild rains.

The reminder wasn't pleasant.

As the worst hurricane to hit the island in almost 50 years, Ivan killed 37 people and damaged or destroyed 90 percent of the island’s properties leaving 60,000 homeless. Trees were stripped of their branches and the once beautifully lush landscape was left barren and brown. The aftermath was ironically described as if a fire had swept through the country.

Worse still, the Grenadians, having the reputation for being among the most cheerful in the Caribbean, were plagued with post-traumatic stress syndrome and clinical depression—mental illnesses unheard of here prior to the hurricane. ¶

But that was then.

I had visited Grenada one year ago and, after hearing all of the doom and gloom in news reports, was expecting the worst when I returned last week. But what I found instead was a miraculous recovery in just four months.

Because of the heavy rains following Ivan that extended Grenada’s wet season unusually long into mid-January, the vegetation has come back plusher and greener than ever.

People have moved out of the shelters and back into their homes and at least 600 hotel rooms are open for bookings—about a third of what was available before Ivan. By the end of next month, this number is expected to double. Most hotels, when they finalize renovations, will not only add rooms, they’ll enhance them.

The island’s vibe is optimistic and joyful once again. The sounds of recovery, a cacophony of hammers and drills and saws, harmonize well with the crashing ocean waves and chirping insects.

The Grenadians even laugh about the storm these days. A favorite story that circulates local haunts tells of a man whose house blew into the middle of a round-about. The man left it there for a few days because it amused driversby.

To be sure, there are not-so-subtle indications the island played host to a nasty hurricane — the National Stadium is completely destroyed, some residents still lack electricity and hot water and use blue tarps for roofs, and the Grand Etang National Park’s rainforest will need another 15 years to fully return (ditto for the forest’s friendly simian tenants).

But the good far, far, far outweighs the bad. The silver lining in Ivan’s dark cloud being many hotels and restaurants needed renovations and expansions dearly, storm or no storm. The just devastation provided a clear opportunity.

HOTELS

On tightwad patrol a year ago, I was based at the quaint Wave Crest — although open, it’s still under major reconstruction.

Free from budget constraints, I found a new home in Grenada. The posh and up-up-and-way-up-scale LaLuna (laluna.com) resort is tucked away in a private pocket of Morne Rouge Bay, right on the edge of the green water. Ivan let it be, possibly fearing Page Six’s Richard Johnson (he partied here for New Year’s).

Playboy-cum-new dad and owner Bernardo Bertucci envisioned a taste of Indonesia in the Caribbean and, in late 2000, built 16 thatched-roofed cottages with treated purple and yellow walls — with personal plunge pools in every one.

Luckily, unlike Indonesian hotels at the moment, only a few of the cottages were significantly damaged by Ivan thanks to the property’s seclusion and they’ve all since been reopened. I didn’t have cable in my cottage the first night, but it returned after that — not that you need TV when you’re here.

Occupancy prior to Ivan was close to 100%, but when I was there only six were booked. No worries, the high-paid European and Australian swimsuit models are returning in droves to do photo shoots on the property (one such was overheard at the bar recalling the first time she realized she was selfish). Let the hobnobbing commence.

The only problem is getting here — the road is unpaved filled with potholes and the storm didn’t help. Though it does keep the riffraff out, if that’s your goal when you spend $600/night in high season for the cheapest cottage.

Another upscale property that got away with only minor cuts and bruises operates on a different theme is the Bel Air Plantation (belairplantation.com). Instead of posturing itself among the gazillions of other resorts in Grand Anse, it sits way on the other side of St. George’s on the undeveloped St. David’s Point.

Its 11 colorful Old World villas blend seamlessly into the forested hillside working with, rather than against the natural environment. Seems nature returned the favor. Ivan barely put a dent in the place — partly because Bel Air was built according to Daytona Beach Florida hurricane standards, partly because it’s on Grenada’s southeast coast where the storm was weaker.

During Ivan’s seige, guests took cover in Water’s Edge, the hotel’s restaurant and bar. Thanks to the onsite grocery and supply store, they had no shortage of food, alcohol, and playing cards. People simply partied until the storm’s end and — unlike those who lost their cable — were able to watch news on satellite TV.

"With the trees on the property that were knocked down, the view of the harbor actually improved," Susan Fisher, the property’s owner, said.

The property has barely been open for a year now and its occupancy (60-70%) is about the same as it was last year, and it’s stuck to the regular rack rates, though there are specials available for longer stays.

Posh Calibash (calabashhotel.com) in L’Anse aux Epines in St. George’s didn’t suffer more than a few decapitated palm trees and the loss of its new beachfront bar that was under construction when Ivan hit. However, occupancy is down between 25-30% and it wasn’t fully open until November 1 of last year.

In the same area, quaint Monmont (monmonthotel.com) had just opened last June and came out of the hurricane strong, losing only a shingle or two. "We would have sued the contractor if we were destroyed," the hotel’s manager joked. Though the hotel was packed immediately after Ivan (relief workers were sleeping on its outdoor stairs) being only one of two that stayed open in the area, its occupancy has since dropped off and rates have been lowered.

As for the more heavily damaged hotels, I’m pleased to report that Grand View Inn (grenadagrandview.com), the only hotel property in St. George’s with views of both Grand Anse Beach and Morne Rouge Bay, has rooms open on both sides.

Before Ivan hit, the hotel had 69 rooms available — now there’s only 45. The old wooden buildings like the onsite restaurant "Pirate’s Cove" were totally flattened, and the main office was completely whisked away. Only a metal safe was left behind.

But by the time summer comes around, the hotel will have expanded to more than 90 modern units. But right now occupancy is considerably down and co-owner Ann Griffith says she’s cut $20 off the normal winter rack rates to lure people back.

Next door at Flamboyant Hotel (flamboyant.com), which of its original 60 rooms only 28 are available now, is undergoing a major EC$4 million reconstructive surgery. Older rooms, even those unhurt by the storm, are being redone and 3 new rooms will be added and all 63 should be available by late Spring. A gym, playground and jacuzzi will also be added by then. The pool and restaurant will be open sometime this month.

Although it’s completely booked now, Flamboyant has knocked 10% off its rack rates.

Gem Holiday Beach Resort (gembeachresort.com) suffered damage to 10 of its 20 rooms and its restaurant and karaoke bar were completely destroyed. Even so, the hotel never closed but its rates have been slashed 30-40%.

There’s over EC$1 million going into repairs and expansion efforts. When finished, the new restaurant will have a sun deck for live bands to perform on.

Of course, not everyone made it out alive. Spice Island Beach Resort (spiceislandbeachresort.com) — considered by many to be the island’s best and classiest resort — was basically as close to the Caribbean Sea as one could get without getting wet.

Needless to say, Spice Island is no more. Given its location and vulnerability along Grand Anse Beach, it likely met Ivan’s fury harder than any other property. But, rumor has it, the hopeful (read: insane) owner plans to rebuild it exactly where it was in a year’s time.

RESTAURANTS

Unfortunately for my stomach, many of the best restaurants I dined in a year ago have vanished. Poor Patrick, the well-known character who owns and cooks at Patrick’s Home Style Cooking, went on holiday when he found his restaurant in shambles and has yet to return.

De Soleil, the one great Tex-Mex beacon in Grenada, is now closed, along with the Allamanda Beach Resort where it was located.

The good news is that many favorites are alive and well. The Aquarium Beach Club & Restaurant (aquarium-grenada.com), an upscale seafood joint in Point Salines, was heavily damaged by the hurricane but reopened in October after a month of reconstruction and continues to be one of the hottest spots to wine and dine. I spotted Grenada’s Attorney General eating with friends when I was there. ¶

You would think Tout Bagay Restaurant & Bar ([473] 440-1500), which faces the ocean at the northern end of Carenage, would have joined the unlucky ones in Davy Jones’ locker — but it actually escaped with minor roof damage.

The primarily seafood restaurant was closed for a month and reopened to a vast drop in clientele. However, with cruise ship tourism in Grenada increasing again (ships dock 10 minutes away), business is right back where it was a year ago.

Meanwhile in the northern parish of St. Patrick’s, Jean Thompson, the owner of the Morne Fendue ([473] 442-9330) plantation, almost didn’t reopen when she discovered the mansion’s windows broken in by branches and floors submerged in knee-high levels of brown water.

Thankfully, she reconsidered and the $17 three-course meal of cullaloo soup, chicken or pork and rice, and ice cream is as good as before. And yes, the place has been mopped up.

Her main competitor, however, the Belmont Plantation, is no more.

BARS/CLUBS

Unlike its neighbors, sleepy Grenada is not known for its wild nightlife — nor does it want to be. In fact, it’s one of the few places left in the Caribbean that doesn’t have a casino (gambling is altogether illegal). Luckily, the few bars and clubs that are here are open and thriving.

Although the Gem Holiday Resort in Morne Rouge Bay suffered quite a bit, its onsite dance club Fantazia 2001 ([473] 444 - 2288) — which I frequented last year — is just fine. But, it’s only open on Wednesdays and Fridays, according to owner Julia Moore.

The true success story is the club/sports bar/restaurant Bananas (bananasgrenada.com), in True Blue, St. George’s — right in drunken stumbling distance of St. George’s University and its many medical students.

It opened in July 2004, only two and a half months before Ivan hit, and besides a losing a few shingles from the roof and fish in its pond, the place was undamaged.

Roger Spronk, the club’s owner, had to foresight to book a generator in advance when he saw Ivan approaching on the internet. Much to the delight of aid workers and soldiers helping out in the area, it opened 8 days later.

Now, the clientele is pretty much back to normal since the students who fled the area returned to sip Carib, watch cricket on TV and dance to live Reggae along with tourists and locals.

For those who go directly to the source, the River Antoine Rum Distillery ([473] 442-4537) in St. Patrick’s — the only water-powered distillery in the Eastern Caribbean — was also left alone, save for a few fallen palms on its property. It was, however, repainted. Tours are EC$10.

For more info, visit the Grenada Board of Tourism’s official Web site at grenadagrenadines.com or call [473] 440-2279.