WORK RELEASE

By CHRIS BUNTING


May 25, 2004 -- DON’T get me wrong — Paris Hilton is a dirty, God-knows-what-infected trollop. But after living my own simple life on a working farm in Pennsylvania Dutch country, I have to give Madame Ho-vary a bit of respect.

 

Especially as my own experience lasted only one day and night, and I stayed at the Rocky Acre Farm, a B&B. But honest, I worked hard.

Rocky Acre sits in Amish-heavy Lancaster County, a place where the air is filled with the aroma of manure — and still manages to smell better than New York City. It’s also where framed Biblical passages, instead of Britney Spears posters, adorn young folks’ walls.

For $95 a night, breakfast included, a family of four can stay at the 150-acre, 200-year-old dairy farm, which is owned by Galen and Eileen Benner. (Tack on more kids for an extra $5 a head.) Keep in mind, though, that this B&B is, well, cozier than most. You’ll sleep in a guest room of their house, say grace before eating in their dining room (Atheists, trust me, fake it!) and read the morning paper in their kitchen. You will, in essence, be part of the family.

While there, you can fish in a stream, paddle a boat, ride a bike — or pitch in with the chores. While no one will mind if you play the day away, you will earn respect by getting armpit sweat stains on your T-shirt and dirt under your nails.

Should you choose the chore route, early birds who wake up before 7 a.m. can snag a few eggs in the coop and bottle feed baby calves in the stalls. Deborah Benner, one of Galen and Eileens daughters-in-law and a former New York actress, will show you the ropes.

Wake up later, and cows and pails will be awaiting. You haven’t lived until you’ve wrapped your fingers around a rubbery udder and jerked out milk — no bull. Dale, Rocky Acre’s resident cow man — the one holding the bovine-sized pooper-scooper in the barn — will be there to demonstrate and instruct. Milkings are at 5 a.m. (skip that one), 1 p.m. and 9 p.m.

If you happen to be around when a cow goes into labor, the Benners encourage your involvement. "If you see legs hanging out of the mother, yank the calf out," Mrs. Benner told me.

Once you’ve thoroughly washed your hands, you can get them dirty again feeding any number of animal species. The farm has goats, cats, chickens and even a miniature pony, Cookie, who the kids can also ride.

The breakfast of smoked turkey bacon, fresh scrambled eggs and pancakes might be the best you’ll ever have.

Wrap up the stay with a relaxing tractor ride around the farm with Mr. Benner at the wheel. Going 5 mph will remind you that, despite that smell coming from the bottoms of your shoes, life can be momentarily peaceful.